How To Build Your Own Dance Dance Revolution (DDR) Metal PadCompiled and Written by William Chow |
5.Pad Section
NON-STEP
BASE WIRING LIGHTS STEPResearch
Analysis
|
Section 5 : The Parts That Make A DDR
Mat
Alright, in keeping with my car analogy, you can break a car down into sections or parts. A DDR mat can be similarly dissected into itÕs component pieces. I will now cover the discussions behind the theory behind each of the pieces with the pros and the cons of them. I will cover some of the results people have been able to achieve with their approach. I hope that by reading these ideas that you will be more informed about what you would like your pad to have and what you are capable of doing. If you have further ideas to add, please feel free to contact me so I can add it to this FAQ.
Section 5.1 : The NON-Stepping Squares
Purpose: To analyze some different methods
on how to build the solid non-stepping squares of the DDR pad. Abstract: In the arcade these pieces are 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó metal squares. They have corner braces on them holding the internals all together. You can define them as the squares on the DDR pad that are NOT used in the game. Section 5.1.1 : RiptideÕs Method
Step
1: Cut out your 10 7/8 inch
square wood panels made from plywood or whatever material you are using. If
you are using a jigsaw, I suggest slightly larger dimensions so you have room
to sand it down to 10 7/8 inches. If the edges of the wood panels are not completely
straight and smooth, sand them down to the proper size so that they are. This
is an important step if you want a smooth straight edge on the metal panel
when it is finished. Step
2: Get your sheet metal cut into
12 inch squares. Clean any
grease and dirt off one side of the metal (this will be the side you will
glue). Scrub the metal thoroughly with steel wool so you have a somewhat
rough surface. This will help the glue stick. Also sand down the side of the
wood panel that will be attached to the metal. The size of the metal sheet doesnÕt have to be perfectly
12Ó x 12Ó square because the extra will be folded over. Also, the metal typically used is 22
gauge (assumably American gauge) so if you use something thicker, you will
need to trim the 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó wood square down a bit to compensate. Step
3: Put the corner brace on the
corner of this wood and mark out where the two screws will end up piercing
the wood. Step
4: Mark out on the sheet metal
where the corners are for the wood, should be about 9/16ths of an inch into
the sheet metal. Mark a point
one inch into the sheet metal from this corner, should be about 1 9/16Ó into
the sheet metal. Drill a 1/2Ó
pan screw from this point through the metal and into the wood just enough to
secure it. Then do the opposite
corner. Then do the other
2 corners. Now the sheet metal
is attached to the wood, with 4 screws in the corners approximately. Step
5: Cut out small squares in the
corners of the metal so you can bend it around the wood. The squares should line up exactly
with the edge of the wood so when it is bent over it will not spill over to
the adjacent edge. Step
6: Using a rubber mallet (donÕt
use a metal hammer), gently bend the metal starting at the corner and working
your way towards the middle of each side until the metal is wrapped around
the wood. Hammering the edges
will put a nice crease in the sheet metal. Start at one corner and work your way along the edge to
the next corner. Bend one side a
little bit at a time by hammering the edge with the mallet. Repeat until the
sheet metal is flat against the side of the wood panel. Step 7: Screw the metal panels together using 2x4 pieces of plywood from behind. See RiptideÕs picture. DonÕt have to make them perfectly tight now since you might want to adjust them slightly later.
Section 5.1.2 : The Ultimate Glue Method
Step
1: Cut out your 10 7/8 inch
square wood panels made from plywood or whatever material you are using. If
you are using a jigsaw, I suggest slightly larger dimensions so you have room
to sand it down to 10 7/8 inches. If the edges of the wood panels are not
completely straight and smooth, sand them down to the proper size so that
they are. This is an important step if you want a smooth straight edge on the
metal panel when it is finished. Step
2: Get your sheet metal cut into
12 inch squares. Clean any
grease and dirt off one side of the metal (this will be the side you will
glue). Scrub the metal thoroughly with steel wool so you have a somewhat
rough surface. This will help the glue stick. Also sand down the side of the
wood panel that will be attached to the metal. The size of the metal sheet doesnÕt have to be perfectly
12Ó x 12Ó square because the extra will be folded over. Also, the metal typically used is 22
gauge (assumably American gauge) so if you use something thicker, you will
need to trim the 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó wood square down a bit to compensate. Step
3: Get a strong glue like
ElmerÕs Ultimate Glue. You will
want to use a glue that has all of the following properties: a.
More
of a liquid/syrup than a rubber paste so it spreads easily b.
Not
a flexible bond, you need a hard bond c.
Super
strong bond strength d.
Bonds
metal and wood The
smallest bottle will probably cover your project. Step
4: First read the instructions
on the glue bottle so you know how to apply it properly. Apply the glue to the rough sides of
the metal and the wood. You
should use enough to cover the entire wood surface. Too much glue will make the panel slide around too much as
it's drying, so don't go overboard.
Spread the glue with a wet paper towel or rag, so that you have an
even coat that completely covers the wood. Be sure to get glue on the corners of the wood, as this
area is vital. Step
5: Set down the panel, metal
side first, and either clamp or weigh it down with lots of pressure. If you
clamp it, make sure that the entire panel has equal pressure throughout.
Check on the panel a few times as it is drying to make sure that the wood
isn't sliding off the metal. If you see excess glue spilling from the sides,
you don't need to worry too much, because it will be scraped off later. Let
the panels sit for at least 24+ hours or as recommended in your glue
instructions. Step
6: Once your panels are dry,
scrape off the excess glue that spilled out of the edges by using a chisel or
similar tool. Use a chisel (or
something else sharp and pointed) and start scraping a line where the metal
meets the wood on the underside of the panel. This will make the metal easier
to bend, give a straighter edge, and allow it to fold over further. Don't
scrape too much, or you may break the metal as you bend it, just a few
scrapes should do it. Step
7: Cut out small squares in the
corners of the metal so you can bend it around the wood. The squares should line up exactly
with the edge of the wood so when it is bent over it will not spill over to
the adjacent edge. Step
8: Using a rubber mallet (donÕt
use a metal hammer), gently bend the metal starting at the corner and working
your way towards the middle of each side until the metal is wrapped around
the wood. Hammering the edges
will put a nice crease in the sheet metal. Start at one corner and work your way along the edge to
the next corner. Bend one side a
little bit at a time by hammering the edge with the mallet. Repeat until the
sheet metal is flat against the side of the wood panel. Step 7: Screw the metal panels together using 2x4 pieces of plywood from behind. See RiptideÕs picture. DonÕt have to make them perfectly tight now since you might want to adjust them slightly later.
Section 5.1.3 : Cheap Method
To
keep costs down, reuse/recycle any wood or material you have. Since these parts are not what you
step on, it will play no role in game play. What will suffer will appearance and structural
integrity. Step
1: Cut out the five 11Ó x 11Ó
squares out of whatever you have. Step 2:
Join them together using the corner braces or whatever method you like
to use. Just screwing them to
the bottom base will save you having to buy the braces.
Section 5.1.4 : Overkill Method
Well,
even though you are not going to be stepping on them too much except for the
return to the centre square beginners. You want to make them super tough. Well, a solid piece of sheet
metal not even inch thick will take the weight of a car and itself will weigh
like a bitch. Something like a
3.0 mm sheet of steel can take over 3000 lbs of weight (specs for a blue bin
garbage dumpster). The 22
gage that is used in the Riptide design is only 0.299Õths of an inch. On the other hand, something like a
3/8Ó piece of plywood can have around 400 plf (pounds per linear foot)
of strength. So unless you expect to be
putting this much punishment on your pad, I would expect you wonÕt need that
much. Step
1: Cut out the five 10 7/8Ó x 10
7/8Ó squares out of whatever you chose. Step
2: Join them together using the
corner braces or whatever method you like to use. If the material is thicker than the brace, you will have
to find some other device to secure them together. Either larger braces or longer screws to bring them
all together. If your
metal plate is really thick, you wonÕt need to wrap it around the wood. Likewise, if you wood is really thick
and you want a wood finish, then donÕt bother trying to wrap the metal over
the wood to get both. Step 3: If you have chosen thicker wood or thicker metal, donÕt forget to adjust the thickness of bracket and dimensions of the 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó board for the thicker metal. Section 5.1.5 : Questions
1.
Do I have to use glue on the metal and wood? No,
you arenÕt required to but if they're not glued, they'll pop up. If they are
glued with the wrong glue, they'll make cracking noises and look bumpy. However, if you use a thicker gauge
metal, warping and crackling wonÕt be an issue so you can skip the glue. Then again, if you made it so thick
that even the metal wonÕt bend, why even bother wrapping the metal around the
wood in the first place? The
only reason it is done this way is so the wood gives the thin 22 gauge metal
itÕs strength. 2.
Can I use some other kind of metal? Sure,
use whatever you can get your hands on. Aluminum sheet metal instead of zinc
is a possibility however is usually cheaper but it is softer and solder
doesnÕt stick to aluminum but it does conduct electricity. Because of this, you will have to
develop another way to screw or tape the wires to the plates. 3.
My plates are all dull and not shiny. Why? You probably
used another type of steel plating. Use a galvanized sheet not a welding sheet. For maximum shiny, get a
chrome or mirrored steel sheet, but be prepared to pay a little bit more. 4.
Do I need an electric saw?
A
lesson to be learned when making this pad, was that the job becomes easier
when you use the right tools. If
you donÕt have a big saw, you can get the guys at Rona or Home Depot to cut
the wood for you. They can
probably cut all five of the squares in a few minutes. And donÕt expect them to cut it
EXACTLY either, they will be close but in the end you will probably have to
sand it down to make it perfect. 5.
In the Riptide descriptions, he has 11Ó x 11Ó in spot and 10
7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó in another spot.
Which is right? I
suppose carpentry was never an exact science. The common adopted standard is 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó
because when you wrap the metal around it, it will add a little. A DDR square panel is suppose to be
11Ó x 11Ó. So obviously,
when you get that metal wrapped around it, your end result should be about
this. Of course, if you
are not bothering doing the wrapping, then you can just cut straight to 11Ó x
11Ó. 6.
In the Riptide, instructions they say to use drywall
screws. Why? Probably because it is cheap to buy bulk. There is no reason to buy that crap. It is the 100% the wrong device for the job. Drywall screws are sharp and designed to cut into the paper-like dry wall sheets. However, the screws are brittle, and they are crap for sheer strength. Hell, a good drill can torque off the heads of a drywall screw when trying to screw into 2x4Õs. Your DDR mat is made out of metal and wood. Use metal and wood screws! Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares
This is defined as the squares that you will step on. In the arcade these are the lighted ÒglassÓ panels that have the arrows on them. In this section we will outline some designs and methods on how to build these panels. I will break this section into a top (the surface), middle (the graphic sandwiched underneath the glass, and bottom (underside of the panel) of the pad. Section 5.2.1 : The Stepping Panels
(The Top)
Purpose: To build the surface of
stepping/sensor squares of the DDR pad. Abstract: In the arcade these pieces are 10 7/8Ó x 10 7/8Ó squares
(roughly). They are clear to let
the light from underneath show through.
When you step on them, your weight will cause it to depress down where
it will cause some kind of connection/switch to detect that you stepped
there. When you let your
weight off the panel, the pad will disconnect from the detector and return
back to normal state ready to accept the next time you step on it. Methods: Section 5.2.1.1 : The Riptide Method
Step
1: You will scribe a diagonal
line on the plexi-glass which will be about half way between the edge of the
corner brace and where the two screws for the corner brace comes through. See RiptideÕs diagram. The cut will need be at a point
to allow the screws of the corner brace come through as well it also must still hide under the lip of
the corner brace. Step
2: Cut the 4 corners off, so the
piece is octagon shaped. See
diagram. Repeat for the other 7
of the pieces of plexi. Save
those corners you cut off because you will need those to help keep your
corner braces level. If you
donÕt care for lights, then you only need 4 pieces of plexi, and 4 pieces of
plywood or whatever you want use down there. Section 5.2.1.2 : The DDR Home Pad
Method
Step
1: Place the corner brace on the
corner of the plexi and mark where the two screws for the corner brace comes
through. See RiptideÕs diagram. Step
2: Drill holes in where the screws
come through 2 maybe even 3 hole sizes bigger to allow the plexi to move
without rubbing on the screws.
In theory both methods should work fine equally well, however this
method requires these holes to be placed perfectly, although larger pilot
holes could always be drilled if the markings were slightly off. Section 5.2.1.3 : The Blue Beef Man
Method
Essentially, it is a Riptide method with these
changes: a.
Instead
of weather stripping, use a Silicon tubing from Du-Bro. b.
Instead
of all the screws on mending plates for contacts, he used mending L-brackets
in the corners instead. So, the
detectors are not on the side of the panels, they are on the corners. Section 5.2.1.4 : Questions
1.
What is Lucite?
Plexiglass? Lexan? These are name brands for acrylic plastic glass
replacements. Lucite is commonly
used in fluorescent light fixtures, patio doors, and store displays. Lexan is commonly used to make
bulletproof glass in cars, banks and gas stations. Plexiglass is used in fabricating car bodies. They generally are very stiff and
bend very little. Lexan
is not an acrylic it is more like tempered glass. Lucite
XL a cast acrylic sheet which is 10 times stronger than glass. Lucite-Tuf has rubber additive mixed
into it for high impact and is 100 times stronger than glass and it as a
lifetime, if it breaks theyÕll replace it, guarantee. At 3/16Ó thick, it is UL tested and
certified Òburglary resisting glazingÓ.
Lucite ES (easy shaping) is designed for complex geometric shapes, and
SW (sanitary) for baths and sinks.
2.
What is thick enough? a.
DDRhomepad
recommends 3/32Ó (0.236mm) thick.
I am sure Lucite is already 10 times stronger than glass, and Lucite
Tuf is 100 times stronger than glass but is more brittle, so 1/8Ó (0.318mm) is probably safe enough. If you want to save some money and
sacrifice strength, you could go to the 5/64Ó (.220mm). However, if you expect abuse or you
expect HEAVY people to be using your pad, then go for the thick stuff. Why not go psycho and go to 1/4Ó
Lucite for strength. b.
You
can use a 1/4"+ piece of
wood (pegboard, plywood, hardwood) under the plexiglass will certainly make
the step more solid and less flexible. It will be cheaper than using a second sheet of
plexiglass thus cutting the cost from 8 panels to 4 panels. Of course, the only disadvantage
behind this is that you canÕt see the light from underneath the wood if you
intend to use lights. If you
forego the new plexi and go with recycling some arrows from an other dead DDR
pad, then that is another money saver there too. 3.
Is Lexan hard to cut? Lexan
is hard stuff. The guy at Home
Depot was pushing hard into the cutter board (some vertical contraption) to
score it. He ran the (fixed) blade down the board about 8 times, then he had
to really put his weight into snapping the cut. You do NOT want to handle Lexan by yourself if you can get
someone else to do it with the tools. 4.
Where do you buy this acrylic plastic stuff? The most common hardware stores like Home Depot and Rona do
carry stuff. You can also go to auto
body shops like Speedy Auto glass.
You can also go to a glass shop.
a.
Home
Depot has their basic stuff called Optix which runs 1/4Ó thick a 24Óx48Ó piece is $76.96 Cdn. They have Duraplex which is 5 times
stronger than Optix. It runs
0.813Ó thick 24Óx48Ó is $36.98 Cdn. They also have Lexan which is 0.093Ó and they have
sheets 32Óx44Ó for $83.97 Cdn and 18Óx24Ó for $25.78. If you are really bored, you
can make the panels out of Fabback, which is an acrylic mirror, which is
24Óx48Ó for $46.97. Remember you
need 11Óx11Ó (roughly) squares,
so a 24Óx48Ó sheet will yield the necessary 8 panels you need. b.
Rona
carries Lucite which is 10 times more shatter resistant than glass. A 1/8Ó (0.125Ó) thick piece at
24Óx48Ó (Lucite #11043-1, Rona #1109-0110, UPC 080515010558) for $34.48
Cdn. They also carry
Lucite-Tuf which is guaranteed 100 times more shatter resistant than
glass. It carries a lifetime
warranty and at 3/16Ó thick it is UL certified as burglar resistant
glass. It maybe brittle but it
was sure hard to even flex. A
3/16Ó (0.117Ó) thick piece at 24Óx48Ó is $58.99 Cdn. They also carry a Lucite cutting
knife, Rona #1902-2201 or UPC 080515091014. 5.
Where do you buy the metal brackets? Again
the same place as you buy the wood and hardware stuff. a.
Rona
doesnÕt carry the Stanley corner braces. Home Depot does.
You are looking for: 2Ó
(50mm) Stanley Heavy Duty Zinc Plated Corner Braces, Stanley #75-550-700,
UPC-033923458575. They were
$3.29 Cdn for a 2 pak. b.
Mending
plates Rona and Home Depot carrys.
Home Depot carries the Stanley plate 2Ó (50mm)x 5/8Ó Zinc Plated Mending Plate, Stanley
#30-0130, UPC 033923930260. They
are $0.76 Cdn for a 4 pak. c.
If
you are really lazy and donÕt want to cut strips of metal for the underside
of the plexiglass, you can buy the metal plates. I suggest metal tie straps over mending plates because
they are thinner and lighter.
The tie straps are more likely to stay glued to the plexi longer. Otherwise, I would use the mending
plate because it would be stronger due to the thicker gauge of metal
used. Tie plates are 1Óx5Ó Ð 20
gauge $0.41 each, and Tie Straps are 1Óx9Ó Ð 18 gauge $0.92 each, and 1
1/4Óx8Ó mending plate with no screws is $1.88 Cdn. 6.
Does the plexiglas retain a flat shape or will it eventually get
bent? It should be fine. I suppose the thicker you go the
safer you are. I mean, Lexan is
pretty sturdy stuff. Then again,
if you wait long enough, even glass will sag so the key element of the
question should then be reworded as follows : Òso what if it did sag?Ó and Òhow long will it take to
sag?Ó. 7.
Is there a way to support under the corner brace a different way
so that you donÕt have to cut a triangle into the plexi? It should be theoretically possible. There are two methods that have
been proposed but I am unaware of how well they worked in application. a.
A hole is cut into the plexiglass
which is a couple sizes larger than the screw that needs to go through the
holes in the corner brace.
Of course this leads to the problem of will it be strong enough
hanging out that much? And will there be any added friction due
to the panels rubbing against the screws? b.
The second method is to somehow use another type of corner brace to
hold the first corner brace in place. Maybe mount 2 corner braces per corner and have
everything screwed in from the side. Of course this makes the sides thicker and thus you
will have to trim the corners of the plexi to accommodate the second bracket
and you will also have to adjust the height of the plexi sandwich because the
height of the bottom bracket. c.
The last method is to remove the brace all together and use another
method to hold the panels in place. The most common methods are as follows
i. Use a large ring washer right at
the corners of each of of the
panels held down by a screw that goes all the way down into the plywood
supports underneath. Cheap
to get, easy to align and install, very little adjustment needed on the plex
panels.
ii.
Make your own bracket that mounts on the non-stepping panels in a
diagonal fashion. Also
easy to mount, requires a little pre-fabbing, requires almost no adjustments
to the plexi.
iii.
Drill a hole right through the plexi a little larger than the screw
just like in part a but instead of a corner bracket just use a rubber washer
and a washer to hold it down.
This is what is referred to in the Stoli Method. 8.
Section 5.1.3 : The Stepping Squares
(The Middle)
This is the region between the top sheet of plexi glass and the bottom sheet of support material. This is where most people will put their arrow graphics. Since most home printers only print 8.5Ó x 11Ó and the square is a little less than 11Óx11Ó you will most likely have to take your graphic to a photocopy store like Staples, OfficeMax, Office Depot, Kinkos or whatever to get them to print it out on their big wide carriage printer. Section 5.1.4 : The Stepping Squares
(The Bottom)
Purpose: To build the supports underneath
stepping/sensor squares of the DDR pad. Abstract: To build the supports for underneath the plexiglass panel
and to build a detection method for when the panel is stepped on. Methods: Section 5.1.4.1 : The Riptide Method
Step
1: Using pieces of 2x4, cut
pieces long enough to fit between your lengthwise 2x4s. They should be about 9Ó in length and
will fit in the wells between the 2x4s which you used to hold the metal
panels together. See Riptide
picture. DonÕt make them perfect
fits, because you donÕt want to completely trap the air inside here. Besides, you want to leave a hair of
a space between the wells to run wires through. We will call this square area Òthe wellÓ. Step
2: Cut out little triangles out
of 3/4Ó plywood that will fit under the corner braces. Leave enough room for the edge of the
plexiglass and leave enough room for the corner brace. Step
3: Screw the little triangles
down to the supports underneath using 1 1/2Ó wood screws. Be sure to leave room for the corner
braces to fit in. Step 4: Apply weather stripping along the edges inside your well for restoring the panel back up to ready position after someone has stepped on it. See RiptideÕs switch diagram. Step 5: On each side of the well, you will run your ÒswitchesÓ. A ÒswitchÓ consists of a bunch of washers, a wire, some more washers to sandwich the wire, and a mending bracket (a 2Ó strip of metal with screw holes in it) on top, and of course a screw to hold it all together. Each side of the well will have 2 of these switches, one for ground and one for trigger signal thus a total of 8 of these switches. You will need to strip the ends of the wire before you sandwich them under the washers. In theory, the easiest way to run the wires and the most secure way would be to screw down the mending bracket with the washers under it, but not all the way tight. Then you strip the end of wire a few inches and wrap this around the screw, underneath the mending bracket, between the washers. Once wrapped around the screw, then tighten down the screws for the mending bracket and that should hold the wire tight. Use a metal screw long enough to handle the washers and still dig a good 1/2Ó+ into the wood. Step 6: You will connecting up 4 of the switches in series, one from each side of the panel. This will be your ground wire. You will connect the remaining 4 switches also one from each side of the panel as your ÒdetectorÓ wire. The concept here is that the plexiglass will have metal pieces which will lower and land on these metal mending brackets thus completing the circuit. Step 7: Cut some strips of scrap sheet metal and glue it to the bottom of the second piece of plexiglass (the one you didnÕt cut the corner from). The strips should be long enough to reach between the two switches you made for each side of the well. Probably 6 inches should be enough. The strips does not need to be very thick as you donÕt it to make big marks under the plexiglass. A good 3/4Ó to 1 1/2Ó will be enough. Scrap off any stray dried glue off the contacts. Step 8: Take your favourite graphic for your DDR pad and get it printed out. The image needs to be 11Ó x 11Ó, so most typical inkjet printers are only 8Óx11Ó. So you going to have to take the image to a photocopy shop like Kinkos, Staples, or Office Depot and have them print it out on 11Óx17Ó paper on their big printers. If you would like it to be high-shine, ask for ÒCast-CoatedÓ. If that is not in stock, then ask for ÒSatin finishÓ. Go for something around 150-300 gsm (grams/square meter), 40-82 bond paper, a good thickness. Regular photocopy paper is 16 or 20 bond. I wouldnÕt recommend something as opaque as construction paper if you plan to use a light underneath. Step 9: Ok, now you are gonna sandwich the image between the plexi with the metal strips glued to it on the bottom, then the graphic image (make sure the arrow is pointing the right way), and then the top plexi to finish the sandwich. Test to make sure it will move up and down ok. If not, shave down the sides of he plexi till it is smoother. Section 5.1.4.2 : The DDR Home Pad
Method
Pretty much the same method as RiptideÕs with the exception of how to deal with the corner brace screws. In RiptideÕs method, in order to screw in the two screws of the corner brace, he cut the corners off and replaced them with pieces of wood so he could screw right it tight to the base while allowing the plexi to move up and down. Now instead of cutting off the entire corner, this method only needs to drill bigger than normal sized holes in the plexi of where the screws will be. This way the plex panel can still move up and down freely and yet the corner brace will still be screwed into the base. This method again requires high precision and lots of shaving and trimming so that edges donÕt rub against each other. He also substituted weather stripping for DU-BRO Silicon Fuel Tubing with an inner Diameter: 1/8" and Outer Diameter: 1/4". Section 5.1.4.3 : The Blue Beef Man
Method
This method is the same as RiptideÕs with the exception of not using the mending plates in the centre of the panel, but using the corner braces as the detector instead. He used the screws from the non-stepping panels and the Stanley 1 1/2Ó flat panel corner braces (they look like ÒLÓ). The
new design is to make it
thinner, and to make the contacts better. The non-metal panels were also clamped, as has been
suggested here but on the sides of the panels as well. It also has a boarder
around the pad, allowing proper doubles use, and giving a safety
zone/convenient place for push-buttons on the top and bottom. It is a 6-arrow
pad, and still compatible with lights. Section 5.1.4.4 : The Cheap Method
This
method is same as the Riptide version, but the non-stepping panels are not
wrapped with steel to save on the money. Instead of buying mending brackets, small strips of good
flexible grade metal is used on the sides for switches. The contacts used here works
like those Morse code science projects made in school. The strip of metal could be mounted
using screws to create the ÒhammerÓ.
The screw with washer technique could be used to adjust the
height. Section 5.1.4.5 : The Paster Method
Same
as the Riptide Method, however, he used a Marine and Auto weather stripping that is 3/4 inch wide, 1/4 inch
thick. Section 5.1.4.5 : The Stoli Method
Stoli was the first documented method that had actually had some new innovative ideas. He used a hardwood plywood like Maple and Fir for a little more strength, 3/32Ó (0.093mm) Lucite, a 26 guage Mirror Finish Stainless Steel metal which has quite a nice effect, mouse pads plus Silicon Fuel Tubing for under the panel supports, Section 5.1.4.6 : Questions
1. Is it suppose to be so tight? Like I always happens to me, when ever I tried to build something nothing fits perfectly. The cuts for the plexiglass and corner pieces of wood in RiptideÕs design have to be very accurate, or things wonÕt slide together very easily. Even if you did follow the instructions to the ÒTÓ, it still might not fit as nicely as you would like. That is what the shaving equipment is for, so start sanding it down. 2. Does the weather stripping need to be 1/2Ó thick? No, it doesnÕt have to be perfect. You can use 2 pieces of 1/4Ó or pieces of 7/16Ó thick. It is because you have the mending brackets on washers to adjust for height. If the panel sits too low/high for the weather stripping, just add/subtract washers under the mending bracket to jack it up/down to make the panel as sensitive as you like. 3.
Does
it need to be weather stripping? No, it doesnÕt.
It just needs to be something that will strong enough to cause the pad
to spring backup when you let your foot off the pad. So you could use old rubber tires,
garden hose, silicon tubing, foam, bed springs, what ever. It all depends on what you have
handy, how easy is it to install, can it withstand the abuse, what the cost
of it is, is it readily available, and how noisy will it be. 1)
I
found something called foam blocker.
It looks like a foam tube.
It is 1/2Ó round and 25Õ long for $4.88 Cdn. 2)
Someone
stacked two pieces of 1/4Ó foam to make a 1/2Ó thick piece. 3)
Someone
found that Latex tubing is readily available and used that. 4)
Someone
used Silicon tubing. 5)
Someone
used an old mouse pad 6)
Metal
springs was also tried but it was a tad noisy 4.
Which
of the methods are better? Functionally speaking, they both should work fine. The Riptide version of the panel is
how the arcade one is designed. 5.
How
do you get rid of this squeeking sound? That
sound is probably coming from the plexi planel scraping against the wood, the
corner brace or the screws. á
Try
using some felt cloth felt to soften the sound. Apply some the felt only on the edge of the acrylic, donÕt
over spill it on to the top or bottom of the plexi. This edge will be underneath the corner brace so you wonÕt
be able to see it. The strips
will be about 1/2Ó thick because your two plexi panels are 1/4Ó thick
(roughly). You can make them a
little longer than the corners to ensure this is no chance that the panel
will rub against the metal bracket. á
Use
your shaving tools to trim the plexi panel down. If the problem is in the same place on all the pads (for
example the plexi is touching the corner brace) you can make a router jig to
notch a little off the plexi.
After all, you need to fix 8 panels, why not make a jig? 6.
How
do you cut/handle the plexi stuff?
That
stuff is pretty tough stuff. But
it is just like arbrite, and glass. a.
Cutting It - You scribe it with a blade and snap it. According the the Lucite display, they suggest
scribing it with a knife a few times,
hang the waste part over a table edge, clamp the keep part with a
straight piece of wood using C-clamps to the table, then apply pressure to
the waste piece and snap it off.
If it is still tough, scribe it some more. Lucite does sell a fancy looking exacto knife looking
blade to cut it. They do NOT
recommend hand power tools.
Table and Panel saws can be used but it needs a plastic cutting blade
with 2-3 teeth per inch, carbide tip, and a triple tooth design with 0¼-5¼
rake angle. b.
Cleaning It Ð It can be washed with mild soap and detergents with warm water. Change the water often since dirt can
scratch the surface when rubbing it.
So try to avoid rubbing.
Abrasive cleaners, window clean sprays, acetone, gasoline, solvents,
and lacquer and thinners will cause damage to the plastic. Fine surface scratches can be
hidden by using a good automotive paste wax (not polish) and buffing it until
clean. Acrylic sheets WILL
develop static electricity thus attracting dust. Wiping it will a damp cloth will temporarily dissipate the
charge. You can also use
antistatic cleaners, Lucite does make one. Check that they are safe to use on acrylic before you buy
it. c.
Drilling It Ð The way to drill through plexi is much the same as metal. Mark the point you wish to drill
through. Start with a small
drill bit. Then go a few sizes
up drill the hole bigger. This
way, you donÕt crack the plastic.
You should also make the hole in the plastic one size bigger than the
size of the screw to prevent rubbing against the side of the screw. 7.
My
contacts are getting demolished due to use. What can be done? a.
As can be expected, the only point of mechanical contact in this whole
design is going to take the most abuse.
The metal mending plates are getting dented and ground to pieces. RiptideÕs method used drywall screws
which got destroyed obviously and the pads start twitching. Now, if the plates are not surviving,
there are thicker gauge mending plates which can be used instead. Maybe step up to 22 maybe 20 even 18
gauge metal. He also used pan
head screws which of course stick up and out of the mending plates, so of
course it will scratch and dent up anything that came in contact with
that. Probably should have used
flat head wood screws so they will fit into the countersunk holes in the
braces. If you encounter
this problem like Riptide, you will know why. b.
If your screws are destroying your mending brackets, you can try using
brass screws instead. It is
softer than regular zinc ones. c.
Another solution would be to use 2 straight 2Ó mending brackets on
each side for contacts and a small wire that runs corner to corner. This way, if any 2 contacts hits the
wire, it will register. 8.
What is inside a real arcade mat? The contents
are what we would expect to be in there inside. The rails are plywood regular Plywood. The weather stripping is some kind of
very, very thick spongy plastic.
It is like a big sponge almost the density of a mouse pad. The other important distinction is
that the panels use a microswitch to detect the presses. The concept is like a doorbell, when
you step down, you hit this button and that registers the circuit. The lights are also controlled by an
another circuit. The panels are
powered by two 100W light bulbs. 9.
My screws for the mending plates contacts resting on the washers are getting impacted into the
wood underneath. Any way to stop
that? Ideally
speaking, we want the contacts to be exactly identical heights, thus
preventing any inconsistencies that would cause problems, and save time by
not needing to adjust them.
Originally, RiptideÕs method simply used washers to hold up a mending
plate. However, the securing
screws got pounded on, which resulted in the washers actually sinking into
the wood slightly. So, the
solution would be a circuit board then the screws actually now each go
through their washer into circuit board, which has had the copper removed in
a curve, making every other screw on the same circuit. This saves a lot of time on wiring,
and is more aesthetically pleasing.
The large surface area of the circuit board also makes it impossible
to over tighten and depress the wood, ensuring equidistant heights 10. My panel moves up and down a
large distance. Is it suppose
to? Use the washers underneath to adjust
the height and sensitivity. Add
more weatherstripping to make it more firm. 11. Why not use something like
microswitches instead of metal on metal contacts? Good idea but the problem behind this idea are: a.
The microswitches are expensive per unit. b.
They are difficult to align and raise and lower to suit your
sensitivity. c.
They break down easy thus requiring you to open your pad again to
change them. They say the switch
will last a million presses. So
take a song like Max 300 which is 573 steps. Assuming, there is an equal
distribution of the steps on all 4 arrows, such a song will press on any one
arrow 144 times. You can play that song (or similar number of step songs)
6945 times. So, there are
3 songs per game, you easy fit around 5 games in a hour (so 15 songs in an
hour). That means each
panel will last you about 463 hours of heavy play. At an average of 2 hours a day, that is 232 days, or 33
weeks or about 8 months. 12. Why not use something like
magnetic reed switches instead of microswitches? Also a good idea.
Small high speed glass reed switches can be purchased with very quick
bounce times as low as 3.0 ms.
Only problem about them would be a way to positioning them and
adjusting them to the right height to register a press. The other big problem is that
the acrylic panels will develop a static charge during its operation thus,
will produce a magnetic field thus screwing up the operation of the reed
switch. 13. Why not use something like a
doorbell? A doorbell would probably work for
a while. It is most likely
constructed like a microswitch too, and will probably only last for an x
number of pushes, probably less than a million. 14. I am not good at wiring, is
there a way I can check my contacts?
Yes. You get a continuity
tester. Hook up your wire
labeled ÒtopÓ and the wire wire labeled ground, and press on the top
panel. It should give a signal
OK. If not, check the
connections and panel movement.
If you donÕt have a continuity tester, you can make the cheap 9 Volt
battery to the tongue one. One
wire to the battery terminal.
The other battery terminal and the other wire to your tongue, if you
get a buzz it good! 15. Do I need to reinforce the wood triangles underneath
the corner braces? Those wooden triangles
are where the corner braces are going to be screwn into may or may not be
needed to access the pad.
Depends on your design.
Anyway, if you feel you need to put metal nuts or countersink a screw
guard in place for extra strength, then be my guest. I am sure those 2Ó wood triangles are
pretty cheap to make. 16. What size does that plate on
that you glue on the plexiglass have to be? The sheet metal is the same as what's used on your
non-stepping panels. The width
and length are 6" by 1.5" because you can evenly cut 16 of them out
of a 12"x12" sheet.
But actually, you only need to make them as long and as wide to basically
get them to cover the distance between the detector plate and your ground
plate. Which if you have 12Ó
panel, and you got the 2Ó mending bracket at 3Ó away from each edge, then all
you theorically need will be a 3Ó long plate. Since the mending plate is only 5/8Ó wide, you can get
away with 3/4Ó wide. 17. I am having problems getting
that wire around the screw and sandwiching the washers around it Get some eye hole ring connectors. Crimp your wire to the connector,
then thread the eye hole through your screw and make the sandwich. 18. I have lots of scrap metal lying around, could I used
these as metal contact switches? Sure why not.
The concept would be the same as those telegraph circuits that are
made as an introduction to electronics kits. Take a strip of metal, bend it up a bit so half of it is
at 45¼. Then mount these under
the arrow panels as a sensor.
When the pad comes down it will press on the raised part of the metal
strip. The strip will come down
and complete the circuit. 19. Can something else be used
instead of gluing metal strips to the plexi? Yes you can.
In theory, all you need is something that sticks to the plexi and that
conducts electricity. A
strip of Copper tape or aluminum duct tape or alarm contact tape would all
work. They are all sticky and do
conduct electricity. However,
with all that downward punishment, it is hard to say whether or not they will
last very long with all that hitting on the mending plates. The metal may just shred the tape to
pieces and thus make the sensor inaccurate. 20. Is there a better way to
handle screws through the corner braces? You can fore go that little block of wood that sits under the corner
brace if you can replace it with something else to replace it. 21. The pad worked great for months
but now I have to stomp in order to get the panels to register. Is there a way to fix the
sensitivity? Adjust the screws on your mending
brackets. Replace your
weatherstripping. 22. The pad works great but it is way too sensitive. Is there a way to fix the sensitivity? What
you need to do is recommend increase the distance between the arrow and the
grounding trigger. Try using a denser material, so it takes
more pressure to make contact.
Either that or lower your contact plates/screws. Section 6.1 : The Interface
Purpose: To adapt the control interface
(Sony Playstation, Xbox or Keyboard) controller to our dance mat. Abstract: The buttons on the Playstation and Xbox controllers are just buttons that come down and make contacts on a small PCB board. Most of us will use be using Playstation, some of us will be using Xbox and the rest of the handfuls will be using Game Cube and computer keyboards. All we have to do is connect our wires from our panel to this controller where the push buttons are and we should have it. The easiest buttons to find the contacts for on a PS controller would be the X,Y, triangle and square buttons. One could just open up the PS controller and solder the contact wire and the ground wire for all each of the 4 pads to the contacts of each of the 4 buttons on the controller. Section 6.1.1 : Riptide Method
Step
1: At this moment you should
have one contact wire and one ground wire coming out of each of the 4 step
panels, so 8 wires total. If you
want to you can label them so you know what is what (eg. ground, up, left,
right, down). Step
2: You will also have two
buttons/switches you have decided to use as your select and start
buttons. Solder two wires from
each of these switchs, label them as (select, ground) and (start,
ground) for a total of 4 more
wires. Step
3: Tie all 6 wires labeled
ground wires together. You can
solder them together, marette them together, bullet/butt connector them, or
even tie them on to a barrier strip. Step
4: Solder a wire from the ground
contact of your PS controller to this bundle of ground wires you made in step
2. Step
5: Solder a wire from the ÒxÓ
button (or ÒupÓ button) on the PS controller to the wire you labeled as up. Step
6: Solder a wire from the ÒyÓ button (or ÒrightÓ button) on the PS controller
to the wire you labeled as right. Step
7: Solder a wire from the ÒtriangleÓ button (or ÒleftÓ button) on the PS
controller to the wire you labeled as left. Step
8: Solder a wire from the ÒsquareÓ button (or ÒdownÓ button) on the PS
controller to the wire you labeled as down. Step
9: Solder a wire from the ÒstartÓ button on the PS controller to the wire you
labeled as start. Step
10: Solder a wire from the ÒselectÓ button on the PS controller to the wire
you labeled as down. Section 6.1.2 : Soft Pad Method
Many people have had issues with their Playstation/X-Box controllers. These are just some of the issues people have encountered during their construction process It was hard to find the soldering points on the PCB the soldering points were really small to solder to the solder connections breaking off easily some controllers are really susitble fto static discharge. weird black coating on the PCB which solder doesnÕt stick to. So the solution many people have found is to get an old soft DDR mat and extract the PCB from hat. It has no known issues. They usually have larger contact points to solder to and they donÕt seem to suffer from static burn out like some controllers do. Section 6.1.3 : Questions
Questions: 1)
Do
you have to use a Sony Playstation controller? You can use what ever you have. Some people have had success with some of the third party
controllers like Gamestop, AscII, Madcatz, and whatever. The trick is to know where all the
contact points are and hope that all this wiring and static and everything
wonÕt fry the controller out. 2) What
about USB or Xbox controllers? Same technique can be used. You still have to find the contacts. 3) What about an old Dance mat? Same technique can be used. You still have to find the contacts which should be a lot easier now. 4) Do I have to ground the whole pad? Considering all the static charge will build up on the moving acrylic sheet. That will build up will attract dust, and eventually start messing up the electronics when it big enough charge is stored there. It could fry your PS controller and/or your controller port on your PS2. If you feel you need a better ground, add a steel plate to the bottom of your pad, ground your screws to that, then run a ground wire to an electrical socket ground, or wall plate or a metal pipe that goes into the ground for your plumbing. 5) What kind of wire should I use? The Playstation wire is 9 stranded wires probably 24 gauge. You only need 8 wires. I suppose you and head over to Radio Shack and buy a roll of wire. You could use CAT-5 internet networking cable since that is 8 conductors but the core is solid. Telephone wires can be stranded but you only get 4 or 6 wires. Ignore the colour coding on your wires, probably safer to label the wires with tape and write what the wire is for. The safest thing to use is a Playstation extension cord or the cord from a dead PS2 controller. It is totally up to you on how much work vs cost you want to spend. 6) I donÕt get why this wiring works? Ok, from my Radio Shack days, whenever I have to explain current flow of electricity, I use the analogy of water flowing through a pipe or a car driving down a highway. Which I guess is not too far off from electrons flowing through the wire. Anyway, so lets take the instant you put your foot down on the step panel. The panel lowers and the mending plate glued to the bottom of your panel comes down and touches your detector plate on the washers and your ground plate on screws. So imagine the water/electrons/car starting from you PS controller. Here would be ÒdrivingÓ instructions for your car. á flowing out of the the ÒxÓ button (for example) contact and traveling along the wire you labeled ÒxÓ panel (or ÒdownÓ arrow) á go into the screw you sandwiched the wire with washer (we called this the detector plate) á go up the screw into the mending plate raised on the screw á travel to the mending plate that was glued to the panel that came down to touch á zip along that plate á back down on to the mending plate labeled ÒgroundÓ á down that screw á into the wire you sandwiched with the washers and the screw (you labeled that wire ÒgroundÓ) á you will pass a really nasty intersection in the ÒroadÓ where 8 roads merges into one ÒroadÓ. (now that would be a nightmare for traffic!) á back into the PS controller to the contact marked ground. Ok, it is not exactly like this, but for newbies this should be good enough get the point across. 7) I suck at soldering. Pay someone else to do it. It has to be done right, or you will be just asking for troubles in the future. 8) How
do I solder to the sheet metal/controller? To
solder to the sheet metal, scratch the sheet metal with something in the area
you're going to be soldering to.
When you're soldering, be sure to heat up the sheet metal for a good
amount of time. The heat
dissipates pretty quickly over the metal, and if the sheet metal isn't warm
enough, it's harder for the solder to stick. To solder to the controller, it's a bit harder. You will scratch the metal contact
you're going to solder to and heat the controller a little bit and solder
basically the same way as the sheet metal, but you have to be more
careful. You don't want to burn
the controller, so don't heat it nearly as much, and you might have to
scratch it a lot more than the sheet metal. Solder Flux really helps out too. It cleans the area for
soldering when heated and helps transfer heat. Also when soldering, remember that cat-5 wire is solid and
not stranded so it does take more heat
there, thus more heat to the PS circuit board too! 9) How long should the wires be? They should be about 6-8 feet long, which is about the regular length of a PS controller. Any longer than that you are probably losing lots due to the resistance in the wire. Probably safer to make the wires shorter here, and use a PS extension cable. 10) Pad is working fine but suddenly it stops working for brief periods of time and then starts working again. Why? Probably due to the build up of static electricity. Find a way to ground your pad. Perhaps run leads from the pads into a barrier strip, and then have a common ground tied to the screw in your wall outlet. Also might be loose wires or wires shorting out. Check them over and use some electrical tape if necessary to cover any possible shorts. Check your connections on the PS pad just in case some solder connection has broken off. If the pad is sending in ÒghostÓ steps even when you have disconnected the panel then you most likely have done the worse case; maybe the PS pad circuitry is fried. Everything works great however it is for a song or two but it is will suddenly stop working. If you unplug it from the PS2, and plug it back in again then it works ok. Sometimes one or more of the arrows will stop registering. Sometimes you will get the functionality back but another one of the pads will die. Sometimes it happens if you play on carpet/hard wood floor, or play with/without shoes or socks on. It is most likely a problem
with static electricity. It even
says in the Lucite handout that the acrylic sheet WILL attract dust due the
static. The moving plates of
plastic certainly wonÕt help things either. So grounding the should help things out a bit. What you want to do is check that all
your corner plates touch. They should because the corner braces
are screwed to each other and thus each metal plate is connected to each
other. You start by screwing or
soldering a wire into one of them.
Install a grounded extension cord to the side so that you have access
to the male end (the end you plug in, the end with the pins/pinis) from the
outside. Cut the female end (the one with the holes) off inside
the pad. There should be a green
ground wire. Attach this wire to
one of the metal plates.
As a safety precaution, put marrettes on the other two coloured wires
so they wonÕt touch each other.
This will help prevent a short and help prevent electrocuting
yourself. Make sure the wall outlet you plug it into is actually grounded like a GFCI. Some older homes do not have their wall panels grounded. With a GFCI, the have a test button so you can tell if you are grounded properly.
I play 30 minutes on my computer emulator, via homemade parallel port adapter. i unplug the soft pad to store it, and recieve a first degree burn from the static pent up inside the pad. the controller did not fail, lose accuracy, ghost, or fry my homemade adapter. softpads are resilliant to static. if you have problems frying controllers, get a softpad (two for $7 on ebay, plus shipping) and use the guts. not that im discouraging grounding, but the softpads work even with static pent up. 11) My pad doesnÕt register left &
right pads at the same time.
Why? Well if you are using a D-pad on a Playstation or Xbox controller,
then it probably has to do with the logic circuit in the pad. When you think about it, on those
pads, how can you press right and left down at the same time on those
things? It can only be one way
or the other. Solution, use
another controller, I suggest the control board from a soft pad is popular. Section 7.0 : The Lights
Purpose: To add switches and lights to the
underside of the stepping panels so they light up when you step on it. Abstract: Just as shown in the Michael Jackson ÒBillie JeanÓ video, we want the pad to light up when someone steps on it. We need to wire up some kind of switch mechanism to register the press and light up a bulb underneath. We could either use the existing switch system some how, or create a new step detection system for the lights. Section 7.1 : The Riptide Method Since the detection method is already in place, why not use the same system for turning on the lights. Of course, since the PS pad is all low voltage and low amperage, you will canÕt just directly connect the light bulbs to it. You will need some kind of relay to do the switch for you. Section 7.2 : The Patsters Method Because
of the low clearance under the pad because of the 2x4 being laid flat it
would have forced me to use smaller bulbs placed closer to the acrylic arrow
squares. Thus, flip the 2x4Õs
upright so they are taller to take the larger bulbs and thus increasing the
height of the pad overall. The
diffusion of light is also harder to achieve when a bulb is located very
close to the acrylic arrow squares. Section 7.3 : The Blue Beef Man Method Use a 9V battery to power LEDs under the pad. Make sure you have an easy access
point to change the batteries.
The other solution would be to wire up an AC/DC adapter for the
lights. Point the LEDs downwards
into a sheet of aluminum foil. Section 7.4 : Questions How bright do I need to make these lights? It is totally up to you how much energy and money you want to spend. Super bright LEDs can deliver a reasonable amount of light to show that a step is pressed. However, in a normally lit room, the effect is muted. Using low wattage halogens of 20W is better but again, with good lighting, it is not very impressive. Section 8.0 : The Bottom Base Purpose: Seal up the bottom of the dance
pad. Abstract: Closing up the bottom of the pad. It is a good idea to leave access panels for getting in to adjust the pad and to change batteries or to change bulbs. It is also good to consider what type of surface where you are going to be playing on. You may need something to help reduce friction. If your pad is really heavy for you, you might also want to consider installing handles and wheels for transport. Section 8.1 : The Bottom Plate 1)
Flat Sheet The Bottom You can use just about anything you want to cover up the bottom of your pad. Your strategy here is to just cover it up, and keep everything inside safe from falling out or getting damaged by outside things when moving it. You can use just about anything from sheet metal, plywood, particle board, peg board, cardboard, cloth even paper. If you are using lights, heat might be a concern. If you are using metal, it would serve as a good grounding plate. Peg board is also a good idea because it allows the trapped air to escape from the wells when you step on the panels. Section 8.2 : Transport Aids 1)
Feet
for the bottom Your
carpet should be fine to play on. The pad will compress the carpet a bit
after it sits. If you don't want it to slide much, you might invest in some
rubber feet or something that you can screw to the bottom of the pad. If you're playing on hardwood floors, you can try rubber feet, or cover the bottom with those little circles that are sticky on one side and felt velvet on the other. 2)
Wheels Well, anyone who has worked with arcade machines, that most machines have their heavy parts installed with wheels. As in my Para Para Paradise machine, it has set of fixed height caster wheels on the bottom of it. It also has a metal pad feet which is attached to a bolt. As you loosen the bolt down, it lowers the feet to a point that the wheels no longer touch the ground. So, this way, you can roll it round, and you can also have it secure enough not to move around when you are playing. Section 9.0 : Other Modifications 3)
Back Support Bars It is also possible to add the back support trick bar to your DDR mat. Now the one in the arcade has a 5 1/4Ó circumference. Thus doing your elementary math, that means it will have a radius of 0.875Ó or 1.75Ó diameter thus a 1 3/4Ó pipe should do the trick. How thick and tall are the back bars? If you mean the bar I think it is
2" around and the metal back piece is 3 1/8". the bars are like 1
1/2 or 1 1/4 inches thick, I went to the store and 2" was WAY too big...
How thick and tall are the back bars? If you mean the bar I think it is
2" around and the metal back piece is 3 1/8". the bars are like 1
1/2 or 1 1/4 inches thick, I went to the store and 2" was WAY too big...
Paster: What do you use to secure your
trick bar? 6 panels pads Ð Now you know how to build the plexi panels, it isnÕt too difficult to wire up two more of those sensors to two more buttons on your PS pad like L1 and L2 and there you can do those funky mixes like DDR 2000. 4)
Doubles Well,
now you built one pad, it is easy enough to replicate your results again and
put them side by side for doubles.
Here are the measurements for the arcade platform. á Arrows = 11" by 11" á Top Border = 69-7/8" by 1-7/8" á Side Borders = 1-1/16" by 33" á Metal Squares = 11" by 11" á Bottom Border = 69-7/8" by 3-1/8" á Center Divider = 1-13/16" by 33" Section 10.0 : Maintenance Of The Pad Purpose: To keep the pad working and
looking like new. Abstract: There are many things you can do to make this or that
work better. However, there are
common things to look at to help you out. Methods: 1)
Metal Sheets - The metal
sheets will start getting all scratched, and dirty with all the shoes and
junk walking on it. You get most
of it by wiping down the pad with a wet cloth. If the cloth doesnÕt do the job, try applying some
aluminum/metal polish. It
turns black when you apply it, then wipe it off with a dry towel or J-cloth. 2)
Acrylic
Panels Ð The
panels will get scratched up with all the dirt from shoes and socks and what
not. It can be cleaned and
buffed up like normal glass. Do
watch out for what chemicals you are allowed to use on it. I copied down some of the care
instructions for Lucite, but you should check about caring your brand of
plastic. This would include
window cleaners, waxes and polishes. 3)
Wiring
- The wires that are inside the panels will need to be
checked once in a while. After
all that abuse, you can expect something to go wrong eventually. First check the wires on
the corner braces have come
loose or have broken off at the ends about 3 or 4 times. Then look at the sheet metal you glued with the
adhesive to the bottom of the Lexan to see if it has fallen off. Lastly, check the washers to make
sure they havenÕt shifted and come loose. Try to keep your wiring simple else it will cause more
work to maintain. If you
experience intermittent response from one of your panels, it will most likely
be an connection issue. At worst
it will be a controller issue.
Section 11.0 : The Biography ShadowDragonz FAQ, message #162: http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=6930450&highlight=#6930450 Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Section 5.2 : The Stepping Squares Ok, what I will do is break the pad into it's |
1. The pad base is a 3/4" piece of plywood - dimensions
are 40" x 36". I used maple because it doesn't cost much more than
the fir/pine these days and I
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6. think it is easier to work with. Any 3/4" plywood would work however, as long as it isn't warped too bad. You will notice in the pic that I marked off the locations of the border and stationary pads. All these pieces will also be cut from 3/4" plywood. Stationary pads are 10 7/8" square, top border is 3", bottom border is 3 3/4", and sides are 1 3/8". The odd sizes are to account for the sheet metal sheathing on the stationary panels and border. The inside dimension of the pad is 33 1/4" square if you do the math. The extra 1/4" allows for a very small gap around each of the arrow panels which will be almost exactly 11" squares. You can't quite get all these pieces out of a 4' x 4' sheet of plywood (you can get everything except the side borders). If you are not planning an X and O button and are going with 5 stationary panels, then you are also going to be short one of the 10 7/8" squares. If you must get all of the necessary pieces out of a 4' x 4' sheet of ply, then you can make the bottom and top borders a little narrower and decrease the overall size accordingly - as long as the inside is about 33" x 33". If you're going to have 5 stationary panels, there is no way that you can get all the necessary wood out of a single 4' x'4' sheet. Notice that I have routed out channels for the wiring. The channels are just big enough to fit a Cat 5 cable. The channels are offset from center about 1" to avoid the screws which I will be using to secure the stationary panels and borders. Also notice that I have pre-drilled all the holes to secure the 3 stationary panels and the borders to the base.
http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/ddr/base/target1.html2. On the underside of the base, I have countersunk all the screw holes. I will eventually secure all the panels with 1 1/4" sheet rock screws from the bottom of the base. Countersinking will ensure that the screw heads will not protrude from the bottom of the pad.
http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/ddr/base/target2.html3. This pic shows the wiring to the arrow switches. I used tape to keep the wires in place while I am working on the base. Eventually all this tape is removed during assembly.